Photo by Leandro Neumann Ciuffo

Buenos Aires, Argentina

May 13, 2014

In your city, how can we tell that we are in the year 2014?

By the cellphone advertisements.


What flavor in your city reminds you of a Pre-Hispanic past?

The mate tea that I drink every morning.


Which smell in your city reminds you of a colonial past?

The smell of the sun on hanging clothes.


Which building or intersection in the city would make us think that we are in the future?

The ads that surround the Obelisk on Avenida 9 de Julio (the widest avenue in the world!) that are made from LED lights.


Where in your city would be the best place to lose track of time; to freeze time; and to gain time?

The best place is the sidewalk. Sitting at the entrance of an unfamiliar house, looking at everything from below.


What song or local band would you recommend for the everyday playlist?

I could recommend many things but I will highlight something current and from the house: Francisco Garamona’s albums.


Which museum or cultural space is generally omitted from a typical cultural excursion, but is definitely worth visiting?

The Galeria Patio del Liceo on the corner of Santa Fé and Anchorena (Subway Line D, Pueyrredón station).


In which bookstore can you find new or second-hand publications on art history, exhibition catalogs, or artist monographs?

By far, the best is La Internacional Argentina (Padilla 865 on the corner of Serrano. Subway Line B, Malabia station). It’s the crossing point for all international writers when they come to Buenos Aires. It’s a bookstore that is also famous for its gatherings.


What would be an “autochthonous” dish, and where would one be a taster?

I would recommend a bolsita de Chipá (cheese bread). In some kiosks in the neighborhood of Once they sell them very cheaply and they are available in almost all the bakeries. They can also be found on the street, where I’ve eaten them (not frequently) and never had any problems. So I leave it up to you.


Where can you find the best coffee (or tea)?

In Varela Varelita! It’s another place that is very literary, and therefore cheap, although when I go, I don’t drink coffee. (On the corner of Calle Paraguay and Scalabrini Ortiz. Subway Line D, Scalabrini Ortiz station)



Mausoleo de Bernardino Rivadavia in Plaza Once. (Subway Line A, Miserere station)


Outdoor or public artwork:

The premises of Eloísa Cartonera in the neighborhood of La Boca (just steps away from the Boca soccer field. Bus Lines 64, 29, etc.)


Where would be the best place to view the sunset in your city?

The intersection of Avenida Rivadavia and Misiones. It’s very moving! (Subway Line A, Miserere station)


Next Sunday, let’s meet at:

Centenario Park to buy surprising things that we don’t need for 10 pesos (Subway Line B, Ángel Gallardo station. Bus Lines 105, 24, 146, etc)


Which book transports me to your city?

Any book by María Moreno. She is Buenos Aires


What aspect of your city most inspires you?

What I like the most is that things (in whatever sense) around here don’t function perfectly and that is very motivating. One can do many things with that.


Where would one probably get lost: geographically, emotionally or historically speaking?

The neighborhood of Constitución at midnight (arriving by cab).


If you were to be commissioned today to create an artwork “about” this city, briefly describe your proposal.

I would like to organize the Museum of Cartoneros (cardboard collectors). It would have a very big parking lot for cars where street vendors can also come with their carts and sell food.